- All surfaces must be free of moisture, wax, dirt, rust and other foreign matter.
- Remove any loose or peeling paint.
- Use sandpaper, power brushing or a liquid de-glosser to dull any existing gloss.
- Remove all dust by wiping surfaces with a clean cloth dampened with paint thinner.
- New Steel
- On clean, rust-free steel apply a prime coat of either ZINC-LIKE PRIMER M739, or SUB TROP RED PRIMER M740.
- Bare galvanized metal should be primed with ALUMINUM BOAT GREEN M736.
- Rusted Or Painted Steel
- Remove all rust, mill scale and dirt by scraping, brushing or sandblasting.
- Prime surfaces with either ZINC-LIKE M739, YACHT PRIMER M741 or SUB TROP RED M740.
- Where extensive surface preparation is either impractical or impossible, prepare surfaces by Hand Tool Method SSPC-SP-2 and prime with ALUMITHANE M730.
- Wipe surface down with white vinegar and prime with either ALUMINUM BOAT PAINT M736 or ZINC-LIKE M739.
- Clean dirt and contaminants from the surface.
- Prime bare wood with YACHT PRIMER M741.
- Sand surface until a dull finish is obtained using fine sandpaper or 1/0 steel wool.
- Topcoat with two full coats of DURALUX Marine Enamel.
- Lead Warning!
- If you scrape, sand or remove old paint from any surface, you may release lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a NIOSH-approved respirator to control lead exposure. Carefully clean up with a wet mop or HEPA vacuum. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the U.S. EPA/ Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424- LEAD (5323) or log on to www.epa.gov/ lead.
- Apply two thin coats of DURALUX CAMOUFLAGE PAINT on properly prepared surfaces as outlined in our “Surface Preparation” section.
- "Feather edge" last brush strokes to insure a smooth finish.
- Do not over apply.
- Maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks.
- Do not paint in direct sunlight.
- Application Temperature, air, surface & material: Minimum 50°F, Maximum 100°F. Relative Humidity: 85% maximum. At least 5°F above dew point.
METHOD OF APPLICATION
- Brush, natural bristle.
- Roller, short nap 1/4"-3/8" nap or mohair.
- Spray: For airless spray use a .013" to .017" orifice with minimum 1,850 psi at tip.
- For conventional spray use Graco 700 Gun 217-757 equipment or equivalent, with fluid pressure of 20 lbs. and atomizing pressure of 35-40 lbs.
- Thinning: If thinning is desired, use Mineral Spirits or Xylene not to exceed a half pint (8 ounces) per gallon.
- Immediately after use with mineral spirits or VM & P Naphtha.
Refer to Safety Data Sheet for additional health and safety information.
Refer to Technical Data Pages for specific surface preparation, application, drying and further information.
*disclaimer: on-screen color representations may vary from actual paint colors.
Can I thin or reduce the Marine Enamel to help with application?
- Yes, reducing will help with all methods of application. Refer to the TDS for proper solvent and reduction amounts.
What’s the best method to apply the Enamel?
- Brush: soft natural bristle
- Roller: Foam, Mohair, Woven (maximum nap length 3/8”)
- Spray: HVLP, Conventional, airless (caution using airless because it’s too easy to over apply)
How many coats do I need?
How thick should each coat be applied?
- THIN! Applying in thin coats is critical to achieving a lasting, hard finish. The recommended Wet Film Thickness (WFT) is located on the TDS. The thickness of paint is expressed in mils (one mil equals 1/1000 of inch).
- Enamels (M720-M774): WFT: 3-4 mils
- Aluminum Boat Green, M736: WFT: 2-3 mils
- ProTite Epoxy, M780-784: WFT: 4-5 mils
- ProPon Epoxy, M390, M388, 9311, 9312, 9314, 9321: WFT: 6-8 mils
- Alumithane, M730: WFT: 3-4 mils
- Clarity on what a “Thin Coat” means
- An American Dollar Bill: 4.30 mils
- Regular aluminum foil: 0.6 mils
- 20lb copy paper: 3.80 mils
How long do I need to wait between each coat?
- It will depend on which product is being used. Refer to the TDS for specific times.
- The drying and recoat times will vary depending on the temperature and humidity levels. The times indicated on the TDS are based on 75°F and 50% humidity. As these levels change, so will the drying / recoat times. Cooler temperatures will result in much
- longer drying times. A general guide and reference is that for every 15 degrees drop in temperature, the drying/ recoat times will double.
What is the minimum / maximum temperatures for applying?
- The minimum temperature for all Duralux coatings is 50°F
- The maximum temperatures are as followed
- Duralux Enamels M720-M774, Aluminum Boat Green M736 & ProTite Epoxy: 90°F
- ProPon Epoxy M390 & Alumithane M730: 80°F.
- M730 Alumithane is a moisture cure coating. Minimize exposure to air. Higher humidity levels will accelerate the curing process.
What primer do you recommend?
- The Primer will depend on what is being painted. The TDS’s will cover specifics to what the primer can be used on. These are the most common surfaces
- Bare Aluminum: Prime with Aluminum Boat Green M736
- Bare Steel: Prime with Yacht White Primer M741 or Alumithane M730
- Galvanized Metal: Prime with Aluminum Boat Green M736
- Previously Painted Surfaces: A small area should be tested for compatibility when using ALUMINUM BOAT PAINT M736 or Yacht White Primer M741 over an existing coating.
- Bare Wood: Prime with Yacht White Primer M741
- Fiberglass: Use the Duralux Marine Camouflage directly to the fiberglass. Provided the fiberglass is clean, dull and dry.
- Primer to use under Epoxy Top-Coat: M730 Alumithane
- Refer to TDS for specific surface preparation information.
- Aluminum: Scuff sand with 150-180 grit sandpaper or wipe surface down with white vinegar
- Wood: Sand with 60-120 grit paper, vacuum sanding dust from surface
- Fiberglass: Sand surface until a dull finish is obtained using fine sandpaper or 1/0 steel wool.
- Steel / Iron: Remove all rust, mill scale and dirt by scraping, brushing or sandblasting.
What acidity level is recommended for the white vinegar etching wash?
Can the Duralux Marine Enamel be tinted?
- No. Duralux Marine Enamels are specifically designed to work as is. Adjusting or altering the color with tints will harm the enamels ability to harden and adhere. Colors can be created by mixing package enamels together, but this practice is not really recommended and voids any responsibility of the dealer or manufacturer.
What sheens are available?
- The Duralux Marine Enamels and Epoxies are a high gloss finish. There are a few specific products that have a lower sheen
- Aluminum Boat Green M736: Flat
- Primers (except Alumithane): Flat
- Camouflage Paints: Flat
Can I use any of the Duralux Marine Coatings to paint the inside of a pool, water tank or fish pond?
- No. We do not recommend painting. Any marine paint (that would take being submerged) could be toxic in such a small environment. They contain volatile organic compounds; these VOC gases will harm the fish and aquatic plants.
How long do I need to wait before putting the boat in the water and using it?
- Depending on how many coats of paint have been applied and weather conditions while drying a boat can generally be used within 5-7 days. More coats of paint will typically take longer to cure, 7-10 days before using.
Can I use any of the Duralux Enamels to paint the bottom of a boat hull?
- No. The only products that are suitable to use on the bottom or below the water line are o Aluminum Boat Green M736
- Alumithane M730
- ProTite Aliphatic Urethane Epoxy M780-M784
I applied the Duralux Enamel XYZ days ago and it’s still not hard / dry / still soft, why?
- The most common cause of the Duralux (or any oil-based paint) enamel not hardening / drying / remaining soft, is over application of the paint, ie: you put the product on too thick. In paint tech terminology, it’s called Solvent Entrapment. Solvent Entrapment is becoming more and more common because of the VOC restrictions and the reduction of solvents allowed in the paint’s formula. The lower amounts of solvents result in a thicker paint, so when the customer applies the paint, they end up putting too thick of a layer of paint. On the surface of the paint, the solvents are easily evaporated off, so it skins over. The surface skin slows the ability of the deeper solvents from evaporating, resulting in a “soft / not hard” paint film. Depending on how thick the paint was applied, the temperature and humidity levels, the paint will eventually harden over time, but it’s hard to say how long that would take. Per specifications of film thickness, the paint will be hard and cured in 5-7 days. With the thicker layer paint, it could be 10-30 days before its hard and cured.
What grade aluminum is the M736 designed for?